Kitchen cabinets take the most abuse of any woodwork in the house: heat, steam, water at the sink and daily slamming. Choosing the right board and hardware matters more than the shutter colour.
What's included
| Part | What it is | What to specify |
|---|---|---|
| Base cabinets | Units under the counter | Carcass board, thickness, legs or plinth |
| Wall cabinets | Units above the counter | Fixing method, depth, shelf count |
| Tall units | Pantry or oven housing | Internal fittings, ventilation for appliances |
| Shutters and drawer fronts | Visible faces | Material, finish, edge banding |
| Hardware | Hinges, drawer channels, handles, baskets, lift-ups | Type, soft-close or normal, quantity |
| Sink unit | Base under the sink | Moisture-resistant board and bottom protection |
| Countertop (optional) | Stone or other top | Often supplied by a separate stone vendor |
| Installation | Fixing, levelling, cut-outs for hob and sink | Who coordinates plumber and electrician |
When you need it
- A new house where the kitchen is at plaster and tile stage
- Replacing old masonry shelves or damaged cabinets
- Adding storage or changing the layout during a renovation
Step-by-step process
- Fix the layout. Decide where the sink, hob, oven, fridge and exhaust go. Plumbing and electrical points follow this layout.
- Measure after plaster. The carpenter measures walls, windows, pipes and switchboards.
- Drawings. Ask for a plan with each unit numbered, including drawers and internal fittings.
- Material sign-off. Keep samples of the board, shutter finish and handle.
- Advance and fabrication. Most cutting and edge banding happens in the workshop.
- Countertop. Stone is usually templated after base units are fixed.
- Installation. Base units levelled, wall units fixed into solid wall, shutters aligned.
- Plumbing and appliance fitting. Sink, tap, hob and chimney are connected.
- Snag list and final payment.
Approvals and documents
Kitchen cabinets do not normally need any approval. If the layout moves a gas point, have a qualified gas fitter do it; do not let the carpenter shift gas pipes.
Keep the drawings, the material list and receipts.
What affects the cost
- Carcass board type and thickness
- Shutter material and finish (laminate, lacquer, high-gloss, veneer, solid wood)
- Number of drawers versus shelves
- Hardware brand tier, soft-close and specialised baskets
- Tall units and appliance housings
- Countertop material and edge profile
- Removal of old kitchen and wall repair
Most quotes are per running foot of base and wall units, or a single package price. Ask what "per running foot" includes — shutters, hardware and countertop are sometimes excluded. Get at least three written quotes for the same drawing.
Questions to ask the provider
- What board will you use for the carcass, especially under the sink?
- How are edges sealed against water?
- Which hinges and drawer channels are included?
- Is the countertop in your scope or separate?
- Who coordinates with the plumber and electrician?
- What warranty do you give on hardware and workmanship?
Red flags
- A per-running-foot rate with no list of what is included
- Chipboard or plain MDF proposed under the sink without explanation
- Wall cabinets fixed only with plugs into weak or hollow walls
- No drawings, only reference photos from the internet
- Large advance before material samples are agreed
FAQs
What is the best board for kitchen cabinets? Many homeowners choose moisture-resistant plywood for carcasses and laminate or lacquered MDF/HDF for shutters. The right choice depends on budget and how much water exposure the kitchen gets.
Should I install cabinets before or after tiling? Floor tiles normally go in first. Wall tiles can be limited to the area between base and wall units; agree this with the carpenter and tiler together.
How long do kitchen cabinets take? It depends on the design, finish and workshop load. Ask for a written schedule with dates for fabrication, installation and countertop.
Can I reuse my old countertop? Sometimes, if the new base units match its size and it can be removed without cracking. Ask the stone vendor to assess it.
Do I need soft-close hardware? It is optional. It reduces slamming and wear, but adds cost. Decide per drawer and shutter rather than all or nothing.
Sources
This guide is based on general trade practice and does not quote rates or standards. Get written quotes for current prices.