Doors, frames, kitchen cabinets, wardrobes and furniture take daily wear. A good polish or lacquer protects the wood and brings out the grain; a poor one turns sticky, yellow or patchy. Polish work is often done by a specialist within a painting team, so ask who will do it.
What's included
| Item | What it covers | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Removing hardware | Handles, hinges, locks taken off or masked | Prevents finish on metal |
| Stripping / sanding | Removing old finish, sanding to bare wood or a key | More work on old, dark polish |
| Filling | Grain filler and putty for gaps and nail holes | Matches wood colour |
| Stain or colour | Tinting to the shade you choose | Approve a sample piece first |
| Sealer | First protective layer, sanded smooth | Affects final smoothness |
| Finish coats | Polish or lacquer in your chosen sheen (matt, satin, gloss) | Number of coats in writing |
| Refitting and clean-up | Hardware back on, area cleaned | Check doors close properly |
Common finish families you'll hear about: traditional hand polish, lacquer (sprayed or brushed), and harder two-part finishes for high-wear surfaces. Ask the polisher to explain the one they recommend and why.
When you need it
- New doors, frames or kitchen cabinets need a finish.
- Old polish has darkened, peeled or gone sticky.
- Water marks or scratches on dining tables and furniture.
- Changing wood colour to match a new interior.
Step-by-step process
- List every item. Doors (one side or both), frames, cabinets, wardrobes, furniture.
- Inspection. Check wood type, old finish, damage and termite signs.
- Sample. Polisher prepares a sample on a hidden area or offcut for colour and sheen.
- Written quote per item or lump sum, with steps and coats.
- Remove hardware and protect floors and walls.
- Strip and sand.
- Fill, stain and seal, sanding between coats.
- Finish coats with drying time between each.
- Refit hardware, test doors and drawers.
- Inspection and final payment.
Approvals and documents
No approvals are usually needed. If spraying lacquer in an apartment or occupied home, agree on ventilation and working hours with neighbours or building management.
What affects the cost
- Number and size of items; doors are often priced per piece or per side.
- Condition: stripping old finish takes longer than polishing new wood.
- Finish type and number of coats.
- Colour matching and stain work.
- Spray vs hand application.
- Whether work is done on site or items are taken to a workshop.
- Material grade.
Questions to ask the polisher
- Which finish do you recommend for this use, and why?
- How many sealer and finish coats?
- Will you make a colour and sheen sample first?
- Do you remove hardware or mask it?
- Is the price per door side or both sides, and are frames included?
- How long before the surface can be used normally?
- How do you control dust and smell in an occupied house?
Red flags
- Polishing straight over old, flaking finish without sanding.
- No sample before applying stain to all doors.
- Finish on hinges and handles.
- Sticky surface days after the last coat.
- Quote that doesn't say what finish or how many coats.
FAQs
Polish or lacquer for kitchen cabinets? Kitchens see heat, steam and oil, so a harder, more resistant finish is often recommended. Ask the polisher to compare durability and repairability.
Can old dark doors be made lighter? Usually only by stripping the old finish and sanding back. Ask for a test on one door first.
How long does a door polish job take? It depends on the number of items, coats and drying time. Ask for a written timeline.
Why did my polish turn white? Moisture trapped under the finish, often from humid weather or a wet surface, can cause white haze. Ask the polisher how they handle humid days.
Sources
This page uses no external rates or standards. Follow product instructions for drying and recoating, and get written quotes from more than one polisher.